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By in Consultancy on 22nd Jul 2005 10:00

Grass growth and development - Terms and definitions

By Phil Sharples

Photosynthesis

Photosynthesising is the plant's way of producing its own food for consumption and therefore growth. The grass plant uses the energy from sunlight to produce sugar (glucose). Cellular respiration then converts this sugar into ATP, the 'fuel' used by all living things. This conversion of 'unusable' sunlight energy into 'usable' chemical energy is closely associated with the actions of a green pigment found in the plant called chlorophyll. This photosynthetic process uses water and releases oxygen that obviously is vital to us as human beings.

The photosynthetic reaction is expressed as:

6H20 + 6CO2 Light C6H12O6 + 6O2

In simplistic terms the above equation can be described as; SIX molecules of water plus SIX molecules of carbon dioxide produce ONE molecule of glucose plus SIX molecules of oxygen.

Respiration

The process of respiration goes on continuously in the plant. The plant uses glucose as a source of stored energy, one by-product of photosynthesis. From the leaf it is dispatched via the vascular tissue (phloem) to the living cells in every part of the plant. Here, it is converted back into carbon dioxide and water again with the help of oxygen from the air. During respiration, oxygen is absorbed, carbohydrates oxidised, carbon dioxide and water formed, and the chemical energy is then converted to usable energy. Living cells capture a portion of this usable energy and utilise it in support of many vital life processes.

Osmosis

The uptake of water by the roots is simply caused because of loss of water from the leaves. This is known as transpiration. Transpiration causes a hydraulic gradient in the xylem tissue, this stimulates the upward movement of water through adhesion (contact and fixing of water molecules to xylem) and cohesion (contact and fixing of water molecules to each other).

Osmosis is the transfer of water from cell to cell. This movement is due to a water potential gradient found in individual cells. This gradient can be explained in the following way. The cells near the leaf posses a lower water potential than those found in the roots due to water loss from transpiration. Absorption of water by root hairs increases the root cortex cells' water potential (or capacity). This absorption is due this time to the lower water potential in the cells of the root than that of the soil water solution held in the soil. Once this occurs cells will become high in water potential, resulting in the neighbouring cells (around and above) having a lower water potential. Water will then move from high to low water potential (or pressure), and so on, so forth.

Root growth and morphology

The turfgrass root functions to allow (a) anchorage of the plant (b) absorption of nutrients, water and gasses such as oxygen, (c) stores some carbohydrates (food), and (d) synthesis of plant hormones. Once established, the grass root system is fibrous with no single root more prominent than the others. However, during establishment a dominant root called the 'seminal root' is produced to aid initial growth and development. These roots are able to absorb more nutrients than fibrous (or adventitious) roots, but they are short-lived with a life expectancy of around 6 - 8 weeks.

Root morphology is made up of three important regions.

1. Region of division
2. Region of elongation
3. Region of maturation

In the region of division the cells are produced from apical meristem, located just behind the root cap. From here the cells divide into their various type or structure (this is determined through chemical signalling) and elongate to their correct size and form. Once the cells have elongated they can be classed as mature. Once matured, the roots outer cells (epidermal) extend outward or laterally to produce what we know as root hairs. It is at the root hairs that water and nutrients are taken up from the soil and gasses are exchanged. Root hairs penetrate the spaces between the soil particles (soil pores) and dramatically increase the surface area of the root.

It is during the stage of elongation that the root grows as the extension of the cells pushes the root cap further into the soil. Interestingly the root cap is coated with a substance known as 'mucigel'. The mucigel covers the root cap and protects it (or more importantly the apical meristem or region of initial cell production) from wearing out as it is pushed though the soil.
Turfgrass roots do not instinctively grow downward; they can grow horizontally, even upward! It is certain however that roots will grow when stimulated. If the soil has adequate and correct supplies of available water and nutrients, growth will occur.

Grass plant and water relationships

There is a continuous transfer of water within and among the soil, the turfgrass plant, and the atmosphere. The transfer of this water may occur in the liquid or vapour form. Water is absorbed in far greater quantities than any other substance required for growth. However, it is thought that only 1 - 3 % of absorbed water is utilised in plant metabolic processes. Most of the absorbed water is lost through transpiration. The internal water balance of a plant is influenced by; water absorption, internal movement and transpiration.

Turfgrass plants absorb water primarily from the soil through the root system. Most water absorption occurs in the 'root hair' zone located a short distance behind the root apex. Root hairs increase the absorption surface of roots. The root hair zone is continually replaced as the root elongates. Note: The number of root hairs decreases as the soil moisture level increases, therefore, constant wetting or watering of the soil can be detrimental to root growth and water uptake.

The quantity of water absorbed is dependent on,

1. The depth of the root system
2. Root number
3. Amount of available water in the rootzone
4. Root extension rate
5. Transpiration rate
6. Soil temperature

Turfgrasses typically have a large number of roots but their depth is limited by mowing. The rooting depth generally will increase in proportion to the cutting height. This is simply a result of the associated increase in carbohydrate synthesis made possible by a fuller leaf blade.

Root activity and water absorption rates will be restricted by,

1. Excessive nitrogen fertilisation
2. Over watering
3. Acidic compacted soils
4. Low cutting heights

Water and nutrients can also be absorbed by the leaves (known as foliar absorption) and stems of turfgrasses. It may enter leaves in either a liquid or vapour state. The path of water movement is usually through the epidermal cells rather than the stomata. This type of absorption occurs with liquid applications of nutrient.

Water movement in the plant

The xylem is the principal water conducting tissue in plants and is continuous from the root hair zone of the roots, through the stem, and to the cells of the leaves. This transports water upward through the plant. A hydrostatic gradient develops between the evaporation zone of the leaves and the water absorption region of the roots with water flowing along gradients of decreasing water potential (see osmosis).

Transpiration

Most transpirational water loss occurs through the leaves although some may occur through any plant part exposed to the atmosphere. The amount of water contained in a plant at any one time is only a small quantity absorbed and transpired. Nearly all the water lost from the turfgrass plant will be lost through the stomata on the leaves.

Stomatal transpiration

The stomata are important structures facilitating the gaseous exchange of CO2 and O2 so vital to photosynthesis. These same stomatal features that enhance efficient gaseous exchange also result in extensive water loss by transpiration. Although composing of only 2 - 3 % of the total turfgrass leaf area the stomata are responsible for as much as 90% of the total water lost to the atmosphere by transpiration.

Evaporation

The loss of moisture from the soil is termed evaporation. As we have already discussed loss of moisture from the plant is termed transpiration. Loss of moisture from both the soil and plant is termed Evapotranspiration. As much as 80 - 85% of the soil moisture depletion can be attributed to evapotranspiration. The evapotranspiration is influenced by; (a) light duration, (b) temperature, (c) atmospheric water pressure, (d) wind, (e) water absorption rate, and (f) soil moisture tension.

Read more articles in Consultancy, by Phil Sharples or from July 2005.



There are 10 comments on this article

26 Jul 2005 by kenneth naylor

Just what I need to pass on to the membership of my Bowling Club!

26 Jul 2005 by kenneth naylor

We read this week of the tracking problems caused by tourists, walkers etc alongside Hadrian's Wall. Bowling Greens are now often played on intermittently say ten hours a day, seven days a week, April/May through to October. It would be interesting to learn more about the quantitatave effect on growth of grass by tracking ie wear caused by play. How much use can grass stand? How much rest does grass need? What is the recovery time between periods of play? Does grass need a holiday too? Thank goodness we do not have floodlighting!

26 Jul 2005 by Anthony asquith

Kenneth,resilience is more on a hard wearing plant species (rye`s and smooth stalked),these would be used for example a cricket wicket.tennis court and winter sports).However a sport like golf or bowling the intensity is less thus more "finer" species are used that will provide good ball roll characteristics.All grass plants require adequate amounts of rest and recovery times (just as we need rest),however rye`s recovery time is quicker than other species and is one of the benefits of this particular species in question.The question you asked regarding recover time between periods of play,I`ts a difficult question as the demands of the surface is different at each venue!!,by that i mean some pitches (winter) may be played on from say sep-apr with maybe only a game once every other week whereas your demands could well be a pitch that is used sep-apr then may be used throughout the season for summer play (by this i`m meaning winter-rugby union and spring/summer-rugby league) thus the pitch doesn`t benefit from a "window" for either renovation or much rest.However ofcourse recover/growth is greater in the spring/summer!!!!!

26 Jul 2005 by Kenneth Naylor

err -thanks for that. I agree but the kind of grasses used on Greens has to be the kind which stand up to 6mm mowing or even less ie.fescues and bents It seems to me that the intensity of use is more on a Flat Bowling Green than on most golf greens, (more so than on Crown Greens where play is more spread out) even when rinks and or settings are changed every day. I am glad that outdoor bowling stops in October so we can get recovery operations into action.What an advantage there is to be using fast growing resilient kinds of grasses.
I was thinking the other day about the advantages of having Crown Greens, spreading out the play to all corners and even diagonally and having the centre of the Greens raised 250mm which facilitates better surface water run-off, similar to many Golf Greens. With Flat Greens and a level tolerance of +/-6mm it only takes a good downpour of rain with an intensity of 25mm per hour to have the Green looking like a badly laid Supermarket car-park.

27 Jul 2005 by Phil Sharples

How much use can grass stand?

The maximum useage levels of grasses is hard to judge as there a number of limiting factors we need to consider such as: The type of footwear worn by players.

The soil type the grass is growing on - the easier it is to compact then the less the grass is able to recover as the oxygen levels are greatly reduced and oxygen is needed by the roots! Also the more compact or dense a soil becomes the less likely it becomes that roots will be able to squeeze past soil crumbs and particles to explore new regions and obviously access food (nutrients) and water.

There are other factors we need to consider as with compaction comes anaerobic conditions reducing the effectiveness of aerobic bacteria and fungi (these are needed to reduce nutrients to available forms (amongst other things) and anerobic bacteria then dominate, this can lead to things such as black layer. The story goes on.......

I think the moral of the story should be that we employ management strategies to combat what is occuring on the surface.

We can aerate frequently, irrigate and fertilise correctly to ensure we give the plant optimal conditions for recovery to occur. Rotate play (as you are doing) and ensure we sow (and keep sowing) the correct grasses on the surface.

There are no real hard and fast rules, but common sense and good judgement will be needed.

I hope this helps somewhat Kenneth?

27 Jul 2005 by John-TN

Sir,
Thanks for your article. Even to a layman it was understandable, interesting, and useful.
One of your points was: "The rooting depth generally will increase in proportion to the cutting height. This is simply a result of the associated increase in carbohydrate synthesis made possible by a fuller leaf blade."
I work with a soccer club in the American South (hot summers): our playing seasons are in the spring and in the fall. During this time we cut the rye / Bermuda to about one inch. We have good irrigation for all of our fields.
Based on your article, would you advise us to allow the grass to reach a height of 2.5 to three inches during the off seasons in order to help the root system develop?

Thanks

John Roberts

27 Jul 2005 by Kenneth Naylor

It has been very obvious these past few days that the impact of bowls hitting the Greens causes a lot of damage. Either the grass is skinned leaving a fragment of loose grass or/and at the point of impact the grass browns causing spotting. Golf greens have a similar problem which is why considerate golfers use a divot fork to ease the turf up preferably within a few minutes of the impact. I am beginning to think we need to issue bowlers with a garden fork as well as shame them into having to sprinkle green sand on the depression. It seems to me that running on the Greens too causes damage, the heels coming down hard onto the turf. We know that a shallow wet soft surface (after a shower of rain) overlying a hard root zine is a recipe for skinning but this is not always the cause. Sharp gritty sand used for topdressing may also be a cause. "Seaside" sand on the other hand is unlikely to cause this kind of root cutting abrasive damage. The problem is that bad bowlers, the hip throwers, do not recognise that they are just that. In the meantime we will keep the sarel roller in use.

27 Jul 2005 by Phil Sharples

Thanks for your kind words John.

Yes, I would always advise raising the height of cut for long periods whenever you can. This little adjustment will help deepen root depth, help shade out weeds and should produce a more resilient grass sward. Of course 'gradual' reductions back to the normal playing height of cut will be needed.

While working on golf courses I was always amazed by the better drought resistance and year round better colour exhibited by the grasses in the rough compared to those on the greens. Simply due to the increases in root depth drawn form height of cut through the year!

Good luck with those warm summers John!

Phil

PS - Sometimes we can increase the heights of cut without the players noticing!! Even a 1 mm increase is better on the plant than in the grass box!

5 Aug 2005 by D Truby

Phil

Enjoyed the article help me to understand a few things, I also have your eBook which i find useful, One thing I have struggeld with this year. One to understand and two to deal with the problem has been weed grasses, e.g Yorkshire Fog, Cocksfoot ..etc. Can you make any sense of the reason it seems to be that therre has been alsmost an epidemic of this in the later spring and early summer. And if you can how can I deal with the problem and prvent it recurrence. In most cases the problem has been too accute to hand weed

6 Aug 2005 by Phil Sharples

With regard to the above question: This is a tricky one! Initially, I think the best thing to do would be for you to take some decent digital pictures (close up) of the problems you are having and email them to me at poa7@yahoo.co.uk

I will then do my best to help you with a reply via email.

Phil

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