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By in Consultancy on 24th Feb 2006 12:00

Pre-season rolling: Don't jump the sun!

By Colin Ashman in conjunction with Bob Scott (British Seed Houses)



Pre-season rolling is for many cricket groundsmen, one of the most important and challenging processes used in the preparation of hard, fast, and bouncy cricket wickets. However, there are no set rules or guidelines for the process and if not understood it can have severe consequences. This article is an attempt to describe some of the main points about pre-season rolling and some of the theory behind it. To begin with, I'll be a looking at the frequency and intensity of rolling then the weight/ footprint of pre-season rolling.

Frequency/ intensity:

Perhaps the best and possibly the most contentious question to answer about pre-season rolling is: "When do I start?" In my experience the best time to start pre-season rolling is when there is a period of sustained spring growth. This is because on a typical soil during winter, soil moisture is maintained at, or near field capacity, which is when soil conditions are ideal.

Although excess rainfall / water is removed by gravity (gravitational water) there is insufficient uptake by dormant grass roots to extract significant amounts of water held in the soil (capillary water) until there is growth. As the turfgrass begins to grow it removes the capillary water from the soil to the extent of its roots, taking the rootzone from field capacity towards wilting point, thus drying the soil. This creates air spaces within the soil profile that can subsequently be consolidated; water cannot be consolidated!

The water content of a soil drops quite rapidly by drainage following a period of saturation by rain or irrigation. After two or three days the rate of water movement out of the soil is quite slow and the soil is said to be at Field capacity. (Brady & Weil 2002.)

Therefore initial pre-season rolling is only necessary when there is growth. If the weather turns cold again, there is less water extraction (transpiration) and therefore less need to roll. The frequency or intensity of rolling should reflect plant growth until the wicket is sufficiently consolidated.

This policy of matching growth with consolidation would mean that less rolling is needed on cold days with low transpiration rates, than on warm days with greater transpiration rates.

If it rains during the pre-season it's worth considering that the rate at which water moves through the soil, the hydraulic conductivity, is lower on heavy clay soils such as those used for cricket wickets. Therefore during periods of rainfall the moisture content of the wicket lower down is less affected as most of the rain will become surface run off.

Weight/ footprint:

Soil moisture levels can be classed as either extremely wet, extremely dry or somewhere in between, the middle point being field capacity. Soil strength is similar as it also has two extremes - elastic (hard) and plastic (soft). The middle point of soil strength is also at field capacity and at this point there are an equal number of pore spaces filled with water as there are filled with air (air-filled porosity).

The significance of field capacity on soil strength is that the greatest amount of consolidation can only take place when there's sufficient lubricant (water) and soil pores (air spaces) within the soil. As the moisture level moves from field capacity to wilting point, so the efficiency of consolidation is gradually diminished. To compensate for this, a heavier roller can be employed to increase efficiency and therefore its effects.

The diameter-to-weight ratio of rollers also plays a major part in the consolidation process. Basically, the greater the diameter and the lighter the roller the less chance of creating a steep bow wave. It is worth mentioning that a bow wave is always created when rolling but in the majority of cases not steep enough to cause any damage to the wicket profile. Steep bow waves do however cause damage, caused by using too heavy a roller with too small a diameter (a pedestrian trailed mower seat maybe!) This damage generally includes:

1. Root shear
2. Surface rucking

Root shear:

This is caused when the bow wave is steep enough to follow the roller from one end of the wicket to the other, causing the delicate roots to shear at a consistent point below the surface of the wicket, usually within the 4" (100mm) of wicket soil needed for good bounce and pace. What will dry the wicket now?

Root shear will cause the wickets, despite a lot of effort, to become very hard on top but behave slow and low. This is because the wicket is still wet underneath thereby absorbing the ball's energy. Evaporation rates (the sun drying the soil directly) in the UK can generally only dry a soil out to a depth of 1" (25mm). It is the loss of water due to the processes of transpiration through the roots of grasses as well as the effects of evaporation (evapotransporation) that dry wickets to depth, creating harder and faster wickets.

Surface rucking:

This is caused when the roller used is too heavy with too small a diameter for the soil moisture conditions involved. The bow wave created then becomes so steep that it is driven over by the roller, which then goes on to create another bow wave until, it too is too big for the roller to push and is then also ridden over. This causes the surface of the wicket to become very uneven, and there is little chance of an immediate remedy: usually years of judicious topdressing or using a machine such as the Koro Fieldtopmaker.

It is advocated that wickets should be rolled in many different directions during pre-season rolling to cause equal consolidation, but also to reduce the effects (if any) of surface rucking. It's also advised not to roll stump to stump too early for the same reason.

Summary:

At field capacity the efficiency of consolidation is at its maximum.

Wicket soils will remain at or near field capacity during the pre-season until grass growth increases the rate of transpiration, therefore drying the wicket. At which point pre-season rolling should commence.

As the turfgrass growth rate increases so does the rate of wicket drying and the efficiency of rolling diminishes.

Heavier rollers will need to be employed to improve the efficiency of rolling when wicket soils have dried sufficiently, to reduce the effects of lighter rollers. Only soils that have dried sufficiently, and therefore have enough strength, should be considered for heavier rolling.

Weight-to-diameter considerations must be made on rollers to ensure that no steep bow waves are created on wickets. Careful consideration should also be given to rollers that have additional weights added, as this may also cause wicket damage.

Choosing the correct roller for the correct soil conditions, when to start, and how much rolling should be done is of course an individual matter and personal preference, but I hope that this article has outlined some of the basic principles for those who are not so familiar with the technique.

British Seed Houses Ltd.
Camp Road Witham St.
Hughes Lincoln,
LN6 9QJ

Tel: 01522 868714

Read more articles in Consultancy, by Colin Ashman or from February 2006.



There are 14 comments on this article

AUSSIES 19TH jULY 2005 010.jpg 26 Feb 2006 by petermarkcraig

Superb article well overdue.

I think that there have been more questions on this subject since the start of the pitchcare forum than any other.

They can now all be reerred here. Well done Bob Scott and of course Pitchcare -again!!

Of course the grass looks good. The sun is shining.

26 Feb 2006 by jontaylor

I've read several comments recently about bow waves. Are they real? My roller goes very slowly. The ground I've rolled over is rarely more than 1mm lower than the virgin ground to the side of the roller. I can see how an oil tanker makes a bow wave in a low viscosity fluid like the sea when it travels at tens of knots, but a cricket roller at 1 or 2 mph in a high viscosity fluid like a clay soil? I'm struggling with the physics on this one.
I do, though, agree totally with the sentiments about waiting to roll until the grass is growing. The postings on this site have got me worrying that I'm too late starting to roll, but with the cool weather and lack of growth, I know in my bones that it's too soon to get any significant weight onto my square. I work on the principal that if it's too cold to roll comfortably without wearing three coats, it's too soon to roll.

The ciderman rolls

Avatar: Akrotiri 27 Feb 2006 by Neil Dixon

When to roll has always been a contentious issue, normally depending on where you are in the Country, and own experiences.
I can see the theory behind the article, but Personally i think by waiting until the Spring to start pre season rolling is too late ( especially in the South East), If previous springs are anything to go by they have been cold and dry so there would not be the sufficent mositure in the Ground (nor sufficent warmth for grass to grow) needed for the required consolidation, and you only get one chance to do pre season rolling.

There is also the issue of Fertilising, when the grass starts to show signs of growing ( Spring) Groundsman up and down the country are looking to apply the first feed of the new season, if rolling was taking place at the same time there may be all sorts of complications ( rollers and fertilisers dont tend to mix very well.

27 Feb 2006 by hacketts2

In previous years I have started to roll in February, only because the weather has been fine, I belive this worked well, because March always seems to be too wet or to cold.
Mind you this month has not been good only rooled once across the square.As someone mentioned you have got to try and asses the situation when or not to roll.

27 Feb 2006 by Minormorris64

Good article, very interesting, up here in Shropshire, I'm lucky if I get any sort of rolling (light or otherwise) done much before the last week of March.

What goes around, comes around

27 Feb 2006 by Anthony Asquith

Hi

It`s totally essential that you don`t allow the wickets to dry out of their own accord or you`ll posses slow wickets that`ll de-stabilise and crack once it becomes dryer.

Remember with pre-season consolidation you want to create a vaccum by drawing moisture up through the structure to be evaporated off

If this isn`t carried out correctly the wickets will play poorly all season as you`ll have no cohesion through depth !

You want to be looking at a 4-5" Block of clay and all aggregation and air pockets have been smoothed out when miable by the action of rolling

Miable/Plasticity etc

Agree with neil

Once soil conditions are correct start pre-season consolidation !

Already it`s quite dry and by leaving it another month you could have problems if conditions persist.

Again like neil said if you are in the south of england conditions will be different to the north

You`ve got to judge your own square/soil conditions

thanks

27 Feb 2006 by goatacre

Wouldn't it be lovely if the Autoroller could work by itself, freeing up the most boring 20 hours of the year for other tasks

27 Feb 2006 by stansfield

My grass hasn't begun to grow yet and I've just given it an autumn-winter feed as it's a bit yellow. I madet the classic mistake of believing the weather forecast and spread it on Friday last assuming rain on Sunday. No rain yet and none forecast, so had to get the hose out today and stand like a prat getting the granules to dissolve. I'll wait until the fertiliser does its work before getting the roller out – maybe in 10 days time, snow permitting, and when the grass is showing some movement. There's plenty of time before the first game at the end of April, so I'm not worried.

27 Feb 2006 by asif555

Hi: I have cricket wicket in Southern California.Weather generally is same year around, except once in a while we do get temp down to 40 F. Rain very little. Our season starts in March, but the grass on my square have stunted growth and I have spots where the grass just does not grow, specially at the creases ( where the batsmans stands at the wicket. I have yuma Bermuda grass on the pitch and the field, which grows vigoursly all over the field but less on Pitch area. Should I put mulch on the pitch or not. Any help and advice is apprediated. Asif Ahmad

27 Feb 2006 by pamsguy

I'm not a groundsman but am interested in the work of groundsmen. Way back in the 70's when I was getting to the end of my cricket playing days my club used to have an annual fixture at Liverpool Cricket Club (Aigburth) where Lancashire did and still do have a 4 day county championship game each season. During one of our games I got into conversation with the groundsman and I asked him about the way he prepared the pitch for the annual county game as compared to a Saturday club game. He told me that the pitch for the county game was rolled every day from 1st January until the actual game! All of the pitches at Aigburth have traditionally been excellent batting strips and the county game has always been a high scoring affair. Could it be that there is a bit too much science as opposed to practicality applied to cricket pitch preparation?

JM

27 Feb 2006 by asif555

Rolling pitch every day? Surprisingly the grass would still be growing. Would'nt be a compaction problem for the grass to grow on the wicket?

1 Mar 2006 by whitfieldc

I know this article is about rolling, but moisture has also been mentioned.
The worst drought for 100 years!! I need to plan for this now. There are ways: water pumped from local stream, rainbutts, etc., but we will still have problems, including the legality of taking water from the watercourse.
Is there any benefit covering the square to keep the sun off during July/August? Or will I just be putting more stress on the grass. What should I cover it with, how often, how long? We're small Surrey village team with limited resources and little manpower during the week.

1 Mar 2006 by Alan Mallinson

How would you apply this excellant article to Bowling Greens. Crown that is.

5 Mar 2006 by Hipper

Goatacre. I'm still waiting for the radio controlled (or laser guided) roller.

Surely if it can be done with a mower it can be done with a roller. Problem is I don't suppose it would ever be considered safe enough to use at a school.

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