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By in Consultancy on 27th Jul 2005 12:00

Turf basics

By Phil Sharples

Understanding the basic principles of turf management are important. Listed below are six basic practices that help promote, establish and sustain sports turf.

Aeration

What is aeration?

Aeration is the process of cultivating the soil beneath the grassed surface without disrupting the turf's surface characteristics. Most soils will need aeration if they receive wear from traffic, be it human or mechanical.

Traffic on a turf surface compresses the soil beneath. This compression or compaction of the soil particles reduces the pore spaces between them. Compaction reduces the amounts of available oxygen that is held within the pore structure that is so vital for root growth, water movement and general plant health.

Any decrease in the size and number of soil pores will lead to many detrimental effects on the grass surface above. Drainage rates will be reduced and the rate at which water enters (infiltrates) the soil will also decrease, meaning a wet, soggy, un-usable surface for long periods after rain or through the winter period. Heavy compaction actually prevents the grass plant rooting as the pore spaces in the soil are too small to allow any roots to penetrate.

Compaction leads to many problems including:

Why aerate?

When is this done?

Aeration can essentially be carried out at any time of the year. Aeration should not be carried out when the soil is in a wet, saturated condition. Aeration of a wet soil leads to smearing when the tines are pushed in and pulled out. Smearing seals the soil preventing any air and/or water movement. Essentially this will cancel out all the benefits aeration brings.



Why Water?

All plants require lots and lots of water. The grasses on any sports turf surface are no different. The grass plant needs water as it forms over 80% of its entire make-up; only 15% of the grass plant is actually dry matter.

Water is an essential component of photosynthesis and without it the grass cannot make food for growth and development. It is used to transport nutrients around the plant. The water inside the plant cells actually makes it stand upright (acts like our skeleton) and without this water the plant will wilt and eventually die. Over 90% of the water taken up by the plant is lost back to the atmosphere. Most water taken up is only used to cool the plant before being released back into the atmosphere.

It is therefore essential to keep up the soils reserves in order to maintain a dense, uniform and aesthetically pleasing lawn. If the plant is to produce a deep and extensive root system the soil must have water in it as this acts as a stimulus for root growth. With correct watering practices the grass plant will develop a deep and extensive root system that eventually leads to it being very drought resistant, allowing the plant to recover rapidly from wear and maintain good colour throughout the year.

How is the water lost?

Water in the soil is lost in two ways: Firstly, after water has entered the plant through the root system it travels upward to the plant leaves and is eventually lost to the atmosphere through thousands of tiny opening on the leaves called stomata. This action of water loss is termed transpiration. Secondly, water is lost from any exposed soil surface between the grass plants. This is termed evaporation. Together (Evapotranspiration) these processes account for the majority of the water lost from the soil.

A deficiency of water in the soil leads to a situation where water loss from the plant through transpiration exceeds what can be taken up by the roots; this causes stress to the grass plant. If this stress persists for more than a few days wilting may occur, the grass will dry out and brown patches may develop on the lawn.

How should I apply water?

The obvious thing to say here is "water when the soil is in a dry state". Though, it is advised to water turf heavily and infrequently. Generally the lighter the soil (the more sandy) the more water will need to be applied. The heavier the soil (Clayey) the less water will need to be applied.

Heavy application of water once every one - two weeks (depending upon weather) during the growing season with perhaps further lighter applications every 3 - 5 days in-between will encourage your grasses to maintain good top-growth, density and colour. Keep a check on the weather as you do not want to be over-watering the turf surface, not only does this waste water but it can also encourage the plant to produce shallow roots (the roots do not have to work to access water as it is always available on the surface!)

The benefits of correct irrigation:

Vertical mowing (Scarification)

What is vertical mowing?



The pedestrian machine used for this operation is around the size of a standard lawn mower. Scarification can be carried out any time of the year as long as the grass is growing strongly enough to recover.

Why scarify?

The main purpose of scarification is to remove an organic material that occurs naturally just below the turf grass leaves, but above the soil layer. Scarification removes thatch and moss, allows the soil to exchange gases and helps promote a thick, lush grass surface.

What is thatch?

Thatch is an organic layer consisting of dead, dying and living stems, roots and leaves, in fact, all parts of the grass plant. A thick thatch layer will have a number of detrimental effects on any lawn. The surface will feel spongy and can stay wet for longer. It prevents the infiltration of water and therefore affects the drainage properties of the lawn.

Thatch also acts as a harbour for pests and diseases to develop and feed in. It promotes the ideal conditions for weed invasion, mosses and undesirable grass species. Thatch can also trap within it any nutrients applied to a lawn resulting in a very shallow root system. Shallow rooted grasses offers poor drought resistance, colour and density and the plants ability to recover from wear will be drastically reduced.

The benefits?

Scarification should be carried out for a number of reasons

Top Dressing

What is top dressing ?

Top dressing is a process of applying additional soil/sand materials to improve the soil profile particularly at the playing surface interface of the grass plant and rootzone profile. The benefits of top dressing are many:-

How should it be applied?

It is important to apply the top dressing when both the material and the grass surface are dry, as this will ensure a rapid incorporation of the material around the base of the plant and into the rootzone profile. Care should be taken on the amount of dressing used. If you apply to much dressing you are likely to smother the grass plant, which may slow plant growth or, in the worst cases, kill the plant.

The top dressing should be correctly incorporated into the existing rootzone otherwise rootbreaks and layering can occur, having a resultant detrimental effect on the playing quality of the turf. To prevent the formation of rootbreaks and layering when top dressing it is important to carry out some additional cultural practices to help integrate the new material into the soil profile. This is achieved when you carry out scarifying and aeration works prior to application of top dressings.

The amount of material required will be dependant on the type of playing surface you are top dressing. Fine turf facilities such as golf, bowls and croquet will require light frequent dressings. Most Greenkeepers tend to top dress little and often, usually on a monthly basis applying in the region of 0.5 tonnes of material to a 500m2 area during the growing season.

However, the amount of top dressing for football pitches will differ. Ideally between 60-100 tones of material should be spread over the whole pitch (6000m2).

Once the top dressing has been applied it is important to brush/drag mat the material into the playing surface.

Fertilisers

What is a fertiliser?

A fertiliser provides one or more essential plant nutrients to aid growth and health and can be applied to the turf surface or rootzone. The main fertiliser nutrients applied to turf are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium, NPK followed by Iron and occasionally Magnesium.

Why apply fertilisers?

The benefits of using fertilisers are many:-

The effects of fertilisers

There are many different formulations of fertiliser. In the main they are applied in either a granular or liquid state.

To determine which one is most appropriate you will need to assess your plant's needs.

In deciding which fertilisers to use, it is important to consider the types of grasses which are to be encouraged for the area in question as well as the existing ground conditions, e.g. soil pH, soil texture and available nutrients. You can help confirm the nutrient status of your soil by carrying out a soil nutrient test. This requires you to send a number of soil samples to a soil Lab. There are many commercial laboratories that will test your soil and give you a report recommending your needs.

Once you receive this information you will be better placed to identify a fertiliser product to suit your needs. In the main most groundsmen usually apply an application of spring, summer and autumn fertilisers to maintain optimum grass growth.

Over seeding

What is over seeding?

Over seeding is the process of applying new seed to an already existing stand of grass. It can be carried out on small worn areas or across the whole lawned surface. Over sowing is an ideal way to produce a thick healthy lawn that looks good the whole year through.

Over sowing is also carried out to replace the annual grass species found in many sports surfaces that simply die off each year. All grasses naturally produce and lay seed when they flower each year (through production of a seed head), but, if a sports turf surface is mown, then the grass is prevented from producing this due to the low height of cut forced upon it by the mower.

Why over seed?

Over seeding is carried out for the following reasons:

When should I over seed?

Over sowing of new grass seed should be carried out from Spring until Autumn time. Any seed sown during the warmer summer months will need to be thoroughly watered throughout any prolonged hot, dry periods. The best time to over sow is the Autumn as at this time of year the soil is warm and the amount of natural rainfall is increased. Sowing in the Autumn will also allow the plant to develop an extensive root system through the winter period.

Over seeding is best carried out after scarification, as this maintenance procedure allows the seed to integrate into the sward and aid the germination process.

The benefits

Read more articles in Consultancy, by Phil Sharples or from July 2005.



There are 6 comments on this article

29 Jul 2005 by ben

forgive me but i find the scarification section slightly confusing in this article.
it seems to be muddling on a line between verti-cutting and scarification.
i think to make it easier for people to learn it would have been better to have two sections, one on verti-cutting and one on scarifying which i always believed to be two different operations.

29 Jul 2005 by andy

the confusion is perhaps in the title, but reading the text, it seems to represent just scarification.
vertical aeration is still scarifying although this term is also often used to describe verti-cutting. for those not au fait with verti-cutting this involves pruning the grass side shoots and thinning out denser areas. it does not involve touching the soil and removing algae/debris in the base of the sward

29 Jul 2005 by Phil Sharples

Ben,

You are right, the article could be confused.

I have only discussed scarification (to keep things a short and simple as possible). The same benefits would be gleened from verti-cutting as with scarification although verti-cutting would not remove matt from the bottom of the thatch layer.

Generally, verti-cutting should be a less intensive operation. The blades of the cutting unit would be closer together and not as heavy duty as those used for scarification. With verti-cutting the thatch is controlled rather than being more physically removed as with scarification.

Good to see you are reading text and questioning its content.

Regards

1 Aug 2005 by Peter Fuller

Phil
I am building a small golf course in the South west of France in the Dordogne. So I have read your article with great interest. But one subject you didn't cover and it is someting we are plagued with, is Weeds. I do need to know the best way to control them, Is it chemical-mechanical or maybe a combination of both.

1 Aug 2005 by ANTHONY ASQUITH

There is two ways to controll weeds,prevention or cure!! prevention is through aiming to establish a fine dense composition,by doing this the weeds will be "crowded out" by the sward thus struggling to establish (as the weeds will require both nutrient and oxygen).Any areas of turf that`s under "stress" will be susceptable thus good cutting practises,avoid high NPK and drought stress.The scars that pathogenic attack,worm casts and poor density (sparse areas) will be an ideal site for the weed to establish.Due to the good work by turf growers weed seeds are banished from quality bagged species however weed seeds can be deposited onto the surface through wind,birds,machines and foot.Chemical blanket treatments are a "last resort" much prefering to discourage culteraly however if weeds aren`t much of a problem use the aerasol sprays that you can spot treat on however if large infestations are present employ the use of a chemical blanket spray,however like i explaines earlier PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE.

2 Aug 2005 by Weeds

Peter,

As Anthony suggests above the best control for weeds is a thick dense sward that prevents germinating weeds from utilising light for growth.

Initially you should work to kill all weeds chemically with an appropriate selective weedkiller. Then after the newly sown grasses begin to establish you can reduce rising weed populations with a mixture of mowing, spraying and hand weeding.

If you have the time you could initially 'fallow' the land. This simply means that you kill everything with a total herbicide for a period of one year. Hopefully after this the land will be relatively weed free leaving ideal conditions for sowing grasses.

Generally for a project such as a new golf course selective spraying (as weed growth dictates) will perhaps be the best route to follow. BUT, make sure you know what weeds you have as this will then ensure you use the correct herbicide for control. It would be wise to remember that some weeds are more resistant to certain herbicides than others! Discover the weeds you have common and botanical names then simply search this site and the web for the correct chemical control measures (or alternatively buy a book)

All the best

Phil Sharples

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