Been struggling with this machine since we bought it.
Does anyone know possible cause for mower stalling when the cutters are engaged?
Everything else seems to be fine apart from it overheating!
thanks,
Dave
2 Apr 2009 by Mike Last edited 2 Apr 2009
First up, check the easy things -
Check that your cylinders aren't too tight
Is there anything stuck in one of the cylinders?
Does it immediately cut out, or does the engine 'labour' for a short period before cutting out?
Why is it overheating?
Does the engine stall under load or is it more of an electrical 'switch-off' cutting out type of stoppage?
There are safety interlock switches on the seat and neutral iirc.
If the engine cuts out rather than stalling it is likely a switch failure.
Stalling is more in line with MikeA's suggestion as well as reel bearing failure etc.
Overheating is likely due to debris blocking the cooling fins. The machine was built around the engine and space is tight. Check and clean all air screens and try and blow out the cooling fins of the radiator.
Have you tried flushing the rad?
GOGGA
Am I mixed up with another machine or is the 180 a ride on triple with a B & S air cooled engine, the last time I saw one of these was in 1991 so things may have changed.
I've had a more in depth chat with the other groundsman at our club who has a little more knowledge with the engines and come out with a little more info.
The cutter engaging belt was replaced last year but the machine has been used effectively for a couple of months since that.
The cylinders are all free to move with no obvious restrictions visible.
It cuts out quite quickly before the belt is fully engaged.
The hydrostatic belt was also renewed at the same time.
The rad was flushed last year and hosed off to try and remove debris.
The machine is a triple ride on. The engine is a Kubota z400 diesel. The rad is mounted on the right side of the machine looking from seated.
Apparently i now have a new problem with water leaking out by the back of the starter motor.
2 Apr 2009 by Mike Last edited 2 Apr 2009
It cuts out quite quickly before the belt is fully engaged.
If it is cutting out quickly, i'd err on the side of an electrical fault, as per Sumo's above input...
Personally, I would look to find the safety switches and 'bypass' them individually to try to isolate the problem, and if/when you find which switch is faulty, replace it. I have seen cases where switches have failed, and they have been bypassed, and left like this - please ensure that if this is the fault, replace the switch before commencing any further work with the machine.
Got one of these machines and had the same problem last year, replace the diseal filter which is under the tank/seat or clean out in petrol, check your oil is clean and to the correct level, clear all debris from the front grill and the rad and hydro filter, clean air filter or replace new ones are not that expensive in fact to replace all filters should cost no more than £50, i did all of the above and it now goes as good as new.
The Motor 180 was powered by the red B&S single cylinder, air-cooled petrol engine. The 180D enjoyed the 2 cyl liquid-cooled diesel - hence 'D'.
The cutting-out as described sounds more like the electrical fault indeed. (Check the switch on the front left lift arm).
The solution described by Mr Deans is referring to the overheating and is considered 'routine maintenance'. Hosing the rad is not ideal. Blowing with an air-line is better. Water makes the dust turn to mud and it stays put, compounding the problem.
A torch and a telescoping mirror will help trace the latest water leak. Correct it asap.
Safety switches are there for a reason. As MikeA says - repair, don't bypass/ignore.
GOGGA
Back to Top - Go to Next Unread Message
This Message is closed, you may not post a reply at this time
