Message Board - Bowls: Hollow Coring
30 Sep 2009 by colin@colchris.plus.com
I note that some manufacturer/advice websites recommend that hollow coring is only carried out every three years - why this restriction? I would have thought that doing it annually would cause no harm ... unless someone knows different!
Thanks for any comments.
30 Sep 2009 by andy-sgs IOW
Colin
I Hollow Core the Bowling Greens I look after every Autumn followed Graden then over-seed Top Dressing is applied during the Spring works for me
Andy
1 Oct 2009 by Ken Barber Last edited 1 Oct 2009
Hi Colin,
There can be no time scale on hollow coring, since it is carried out for two basic reasons (1) to introduce a material to improve the rootzone. (2) to remove excess thatch. And the need or timing to remove thatch is depedent on how quickly the thatch builds up! Too much nitrogen and/or irrigation will increase thatch build-up twice a quickly than if low nitrogen or minimal irrigation was applied.
KB
The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under who’s shade you do not expect to sit.
1 Oct 2009 by Philmort
Taking on a poor quality green we hollow cored with cluster tines several times per year, just to depth of thatch. Improved no end.
If the rootzone is poor, needing refreshing / replacing, annual 'proper' coring would not do any harm - if the green is in good nick it may not need it so often.
There was a thread some months ago in which the value for gaseous exchange was also discussed.
Proud to serve grassroots cricket
4 Oct 2009 by Simon Gray
I think the only reason you shouldn't hollow core every year is just down to the extra cost in topdressing!?!
5 Oct 2009 by Ken Barber
I am not sure the cost of top-dressing and whether or not to hollow core are an issue?
I have not hollow cored for the 4 years I have been employed by my current club.... and I have minimal thatch. I believe the hollow coring should only be carried out if your thatch is getting excessive or you need to improve your drainage by introducing a suitable rootzone medium.
I also believe that if you manage your fertiliser input correctly i.e. not too much nitrogen, which will produce a grass factory and lead onto excessive thatch. As well as applying organic forms of nutrient and cut out or minimise the use of oil based fertilisers and pesticides. Incorporate a regular aeration program...... then the rootzone will become healthier and soil organisms will thrive and control your thatch by breaking it down, leading to a secondary souce of nutrients. A healthier rootzone will reduce the need for pesticide usage, since many forms of soil organisms are antagonistic towards turf disease.
KB
The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under who’s shade you do not expect to sit.
30 Oct 2009 by colin@colchris.plus.com
Thanks everyone for your input.
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