Every year I get a certain amount of moss come the start of the season. I use fert with FE and spray liquid iron. Is it worth investing in a sarrel roller ro keep the surface open during the close season? Thanks in advance.
Tony
Magnum.
I have the same problem and use A&W with fe.
Come March there WILL be moss but I then spray with fe prior to pre-season scarification. I think so long as you address the problem throughout the winter, by the time you come to cutting out your pitches in early April the moss will have gone.
As for the sarrel. I have one and could not pull it myself so drag it behind the Countax but only when the square is hard enough to take the tyres.
I spike 4 times with a "Autoyurfman" and in early spring use the sarrel behind the Countax. I can go over it in 3 directions in about 90 Min's.
So yes get a sarrel as it has many applications but if like me you are on the wrong side of "middle aged" don't think you can use it on a large square without help!!!!!
Chris
"He not busy being born is busy dying"
25 Oct 2009 by Anthony Asquith Last edited 25 Oct 2009
Hi Ben
Yes anything you can do to keep the surface open and get moisture from the surface will help to controll Moss plus others things. Always look at prevention rather than cure and hit the root of the problem such as reduce shade, improve grass density, reduce compaction, establish shade tolerant crops etc. Potassium salts help controll moss as does Epsom Salts as the sulphate plays a plays a major part in controll due to it's prohibiting the integrity of the spores. Anything you can do to maintain an open macropore structure will aid drainage, drying, reduce thatch and finaly the establishment of finer species as the ultimate goal.
The key points would be:
1) Change the enviroment
2) Spike, spike, spike
3) Use a compatable rootzone (Lawn Sand as a Fe carrier)
4) Look at PH (High acidic soil encourages moss but sustainable species love It!)
5) Reduce stress on the plant as injury, physiological stress can encourage ingress
Cheers
Ant
Is this a new approach, Ant, concerning lawn sand. I was always told that it was a complete no-no on a cricket square.
Perhaps some application rates would clear it up?
Presentation is the name of the game.
25 Oct 2009 by Anthony Asquith
Oops sorry I did not realise it was a cricket square, my apologies, I was refering it to golf, bowling etc.
AA
27 Oct 2009 by panch
I seem to think we have had the lawn sand debate some time ago. seem to remember bath having some input. I have used it and had good results on a cricket square in the past but have been led to believe excessive use will be detrimental to the binding properties of the loam.
I always thought the "sand" was a carrier for the iron in Lawn sand.
So in the past have thought about drying out (properly) a couple of bags of Kaloam, over the winter then mixing this with the appropriate amount of Fe for me square and spinning it on in March as I do P S R.
Of course like many other things I haven't done it yet but if the panel thinks it's worth a try, I will do it next March.
Must be better than dissolving it and spraying it on or just spinning it on neat, or mixing it with A/W fert, OR NOT??
Has anyone mixed Fe with loam??
Chris
"He not busy being born is busy dying"
28 Oct 2009 by Anthony Asquith
Excessive use of sand is not recommended ameliorated into an existing wicket soil for obvious reasons. The wicket soils cultivated are the exact mix/blend of various grades of sand, Clay, Silt and Organic Matter to provide cohesional, crusting and tensile strength that can remain 'cohered' to last the duration of matches.
Chris
As far as mixing loams with Fe, I have done research and trials on various Fe use and motty strength with interesting results, for more info email me at anthonyasquith@amenity.co.uk
Cheers
Ant
dryed 2 bags of kaloam on trays in greenhouse mixed fe screened to remove lumps and applyed with a spin spreader.Had no problems with bridging in spreader but sus
pect you must use as soon as mixed.
phil
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