26 Dec 2009 by Mike Last edited 26 Dec 2009
Hello all - hope everyone had an enjoyable Christmas.
I'm doing a bit of research into Take all patch, and its control measures, or more specifically, the disease pathogens natural antagonists. I have found that Fluorescent pseudomonds and the fungi Phialophora graminicola are the two main antagonists of the disease pathogen (I think!!). Now i'm looking for the sources of these two antagonists - I imagine that a good compost tea would contain them, but can anyone suggest any other sources of these antagonists?
Mike
27 Dec 2009 by Anthony Asquith Last edited 27 Dec 2009
Hi Mike
Yes you can use inoculants, compost teas and even compost in some situations which are all packed with antagonistic microbes. The pathogen that causes TAP (Gaeumannomcyes Graminis) is quite weak and easily outcompeted by more stronger soil fungi for soil nutrients. This disease does however tie all the Mg in soil and is better equiped to attack on new sterile sand based rootzones in high PH situations. You will find if the PH increases to the extent where other soil derivors struggle to survive (remember PH does not only affect nutrient takeup but also the sustainability and survival of soil microbes) then this will be the dominant fungi and outcompete all the rest. In some cases it stays around the soil for years waiting for it's chance to get a foot at the table so to speak once once conditions are ideal for it's dominance (Ex excessive Nitrate, Lime application etc). New immature, sterile soils with high percolation rates that draw nutrients and water out of the soil are susceptable and Irrigation with high PH (This has been covered in another message) but also cases have been seen with TAP on old constructions so for me the main cause is the PH and the Pathogens ability to become more aggresive in Alkaline conditions.
Anything to reduce PH (Ammonium based fertilizers, Fe,) or/and saturating the soil with beneficial fungi, humic acids etc or/and using inoccula and using a stable food source and drip feeding the fungi. Spraying regular liquid Magnese works well to reclaim the soil back if Mag has been tied up thus TAP attack due to insufficient quantities. As said, anything that drenches or saturates the soil with beneficial fungi will help to maintain a 'sweet' and healthy soil (presuming all the other factors are in place ie reduced chemical imput, Aeration etc) and also all the above factors are followed.
Cheers
Ant
Cheers
Ant
As always Anthony your research demonstrates much pertinence and I for one concur with the articulate response given to Mike.
Mike, if I may, I would make suggestion that you use a good quality Fish Hydrolysate (Liquid form) which retains the oils rather than a dust which excludes the main catalyst to promoting the fungul population of antagonists.
AS DEFINED! BALANCE TO EQUATE SOLUTION
Ian Mac
27 Dec 2009 by Mike
Thanks guys, much appreciated.
Mike
Hi Mike, Both replies are spot on. Ian's with Fish Hydrolysate, which is THE best for stimulating and feeding beneficial organisms. It is a difficult product to source because of the aroma etc. I know of an excellent one that has just come onto the maket, and which I will be using next year.... PM me if you want the company name.
And Anthony.... the walking text book has given an excellent account of resources and products available to control TAP. I have used all of them and in my capacity of course manager at one of a number of new build courses, where my greens suffered the onslaught of TAP in the early years. Hand drenching with ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and sulphur brought about a rapid response and recovery of the thinned out patches. As stated managing the PH is critical and given the choice today, I would produce my own tea compost and drench the infected areas, maybe pricking the patches with a garden fork first.
KB
The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under who’s shade you do not expect to sit.
28 Dec 2009 by Anthony Asquith
Hi Mike
It's all about maintaining an equilibrium and in most cases it's just a case of tweaking so an imbalance is never pertinent. As I said earlier, the Mn can be tied up, bound and unavailable in the soil so action is needed. The pathogen responsible (Gaeumannomyces Graminis) oxidises Mn very quickly which makes it unavailable to plants which promotes TAP so it may be an idea to to supply more of it to the soil if it poses a problem so the plant can get increased amounts of it and counteract the extreme oxidational process but as always balance and equalibrium is 'KEY'.
Cheers
AA
30 Dec 2009 by IGS
Take-all will flourish where there is inadequate 'available' Manganese (Mn) - Magnesium of course is important in any balanced soil but for take-all prevention Mn is one of the vital elements.
Copper is also vital to deter Take-All
As Anthony states, Mn is actually locked up by the take-all pathogens decreasing it availability.
pH is the main governing factor here and as such there is no point in applying manganese if it is going to be locked up and therefore unavailable.
However, if the pH is too low and where there is ample levels of Iron, Aluminium, Manganese can become toxic along with Iron, etc
Depending upon the residual element content of a soil / rootzone a pH level of somewhere between 5.5 – 6.5 could be beneficial. The higher level where soluble Al is present
High concentrations of Calcium and Magnesium ions will also lock up / limit the availability of Mn up take.
Chelated EDTA / EDDHA Manganese may also be detrimental as these metal chelators have an infinity for Iron and ditch the Mn taking up Fe. Excess / High Iron (Fe) content can also limit Mn availability - and visa versa
Combined Sodium and Potassium can limit Mn availability
The availability and absorption of Mn from soils is more influenced by microbial activity than is any other micronutrient.
Contradictory, the preferred rootzone for golf greens / sand based sports rootzones, being low in Organic Matter, with high drainage rate and subsequent high levels of air all favour low Mn.
A balanced rootzone in terms of elements and with adequate microbial nourishment will help to deter Take-All.
I wonder if Chlorides have any influence? They certainly do with other plant species. I have note very low levels in some soils of late...
Maintaining good levels of favourable microbes by applying compost teas may be a positive solution. But like others on this web site I am look forward to perusing 2 -3 years evaluations with results that also inform of the number of applications required throughout the period, rain fastness, and so on
Some research is in hand for specific, effective microbial inoculants for Take-All of which the results will be published either way
Prevention has to be better than cure - in the mean time 'keep them mower blades sharp'
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