Hi, I am possibly considering a granular mosskiller this spring, how soon would you think it could be applied and be effective.
Regards
Steve
Don't talk to me about Contractors Wonka, I am one myself......
Hi Steve, Spoke with my rep yesterday about a product with 10% fe and he was happy for me to use it now and again in March but then he is selling the stuff.
lol
I will also speak with reps, I was just curious as to whether anyone has applied as early as mid-feb successfully, looking for a green up and moss control before applying a spring/summer feed in April. Although I have used products with iron before I have never used one that has a label recommendation for moss control.
Regards
Steve
Don't talk to me about Contractors Wonka, I am one myself......
5 Feb 2010 by olaf
I Spray with iron at any time of year to give the colour a boost, harden up the plant and bonk the moss back.
Using the cheap as chips fe (20%ish active ingrediant) mixed at rate of 1kilo in 25litres water to cover 500sqm.
works well and only costs a few bob a go.
as a hint first dilute the stuff in hot water then fill tank or else a lot don't dilute and clogs everything up also use a finer filter in the fill up hole (old pair of tights works well and you will look rather fetching in them afterwards), or before if thats your bag. Well we do live in a liberal age, sorry I digress.........but roll on the next rocky horror show..........lets do the timewarp........
Some people are like Slinky's, totally useless but amusing if you push them down the stairs
Andy, you need to get a job boy !!!
5 Feb 2010 by olaf
got a job thanks G, bollody good un, don't seem to go there much. and its poets day today...........as well as some git has nicked my motorbike this morning so I'm stuck.
Some people are like Slinky's, totally useless but amusing if you push them down the stairs
Take a look at headland 4:0:4 + 9% fe, its sold as a mosskiller, at high rate it give great results at knocking back moss and also gives the grass a little tickle to fill in the gaps. its ideal this time of the year
9 Feb 2010 by B McD
Also you can try Aitkens High Iron 4-0-10+10%Fe as a mosskiller and also to help harden and deal with potash deficiencies if any.
Hi steve
Look at trials done in Penn State. Go back to Fe Sul 20kg/ha every two weeks. Black turf for a while but good cost effective treatment. Keep water levels at foliar rate and dont over do the number of apps. This method will not increase the chance of black layer or even exaserbate any existing issues you might have. Some results have shown this method to be more effective than some of the 'super' chemicals in the US.
Hi all, and thanks for the replies.
I am limited to a granular as we do not possess a power sprayer and the areas that I am primarily concerned with are bowling greens, most of which are fenced off making access a little tricky in some cases.
I have looked at several products and if I go this route I know which product I will probably use, it was purely as to whether anyone had positive experience from using this type of product in February.
Best Regards
Steve
Don't talk to me about Contractors Wonka, I am one myself......
9 Feb 2010 by Steve63 Last edited 9 Feb 2010
sorry double post
Don't talk to me about Contractors Wonka, I am one myself......
Steve,
Can't you buy a hand-pumped sprayer?
25kg iron sulphate - about £20. A little acidifier to stabilise the solution - a few quid. Water - free(ish). Cost of materials - about £4 for a bowling green.
Got to be a saving over granular.
But it won't feed at the same time. So, alternative - on a bowling green - lawn sand. If you don't want the N kick - mix your own. Kiln dried sand from the builders merchant + iron sulphate powder - blend them in a concrete mixer.
The ciderman rolls
9 Feb 2010 by Eddy21 Last edited 9 Feb 2010
Hi Steve,
It looks like Jon beat me to it, but I also was going to say why not mix your own lawn sand?
Its dead easy in fairness and the make up is just a mix of:
1 part sulphate of iron
3 parts sulphate of ammonia
20 parts dry sand (which is compatible with your rootzone)
Apply at an application rate of between 80 - 140 grams per meter squared.
We mix our own here in Paris and use it on our tees in conjunction with a micro-coring operation for our spring tee renovations.
It works well and costs next to nothing, though personally I'd wait a little longer until the chance of frost is eliminated.
Hope this helps
DE
Learning is there for every man
Got some 14-0-0+8.9%FE was thinking of trying some on my worst areas but is the 14of N a bit high.
Apply at half the rate paul for now, see how it goes. Apply the other half mid to end of March.
10 Feb 2010 by Eddy21 Last edited 10 Feb 2010
Hi Paul + Bath
It really depends on what form of nitrogen you are applying. After just having a browse through the scotts range I see they have a fertiliser with the exact same analysis, which consists of N in the form of Ammoniacal N (6%) and urea (8%). These 2 forms of N will give a pretty rapid release at even low temperatures probably leading to a flush of growth, which you don't really want at this time of year. If we are talking about the same fertiliser here (which I'm sure we are) this is classed as a conventional fertiliser (quick release).
Even applying at half rate (17g per m2) you could potentially be putting down in the region of 25 units of N in a quick release form in Feb/March. In my personal opinion I would save this fertiliser for later on (ie spring). If you apply it at half rate, you will end up with poor coverage (leading to speckling) , a potential flush of growth, which in turn could then lead to turfgrass which is suceptable to disease attack.
It's really not worth it for a bit of moss that can be addressed when it warms up a little. The only thing I would personally use for moss control (or at least to try and knock it back a bit) at this time of year is a bit of ferrous sulphate, like the guys above have talked about, probably in just a liquid form.
One last point...I really believe that moss control reduction can only be carried out when the turf is actively growing. It no doubt takes a hit when sulphate of iron is applied and goes black in colour, though if you look carefully it soon turns green again. The turf really needs to out compete the moss, whilst the moss is in a knocked backed state...this surely can't happen at this time of the year at full potential even if a little growth is present. Just a bit of food for thought.
The season is just around the corner now....it will soon be here...now is a perfect time to start planning our management practises and problem solving, thinking why are we getting moss on our surfaces? how can we alter and improve our management practices for 2010 to lessen the chances of further moss invasions? do we need to lift our hieghts of cut? topdress more to smooth our surfaces, reduce our thatch layers? reduce shade?, improve drainage etc etc etc..Now is the time to be thinking about it, as we will all soon be GO GO GO (I cant wait)
Hope this is of some help and that my views are of some interest.
DE
Learning is there for every man
Point taken Eddy.
As Eddy says Paul, leave alone for now, not worth the risk. Another month or so and it could be all change.
Thanks guys
It is Scotts dont know the exact % of the N all these numbers and formula's are way over my head, its no problem to wait a while it may get into plus figures on the temperature front come April.
Hi, and thanks again.
I have looked at lawn sands, but the application rate/cost is unattractive to me.
Mixing and applying liquids over 23 bowling greens 4 putting courses, a golf course greens, 8 tennis courts, 3 cricket squares and a pitch & putt course doesnt appeal either. ;))
Life is a compromise and the product that I will use needs to be just that, a compromise, I am looking to check moss back with a recognised control knowing full well that we do little to discourage it, maybe we will get a dry summer to assist us this year.
By appliying an early season feed/moss control and then applying a conventional spring/summer feed in April I can manage the sites to a greater or lesser extent with the same product(s) the cost does come down appreciably when you can order two tones of one product instead of bits of this and bits of that.
I have tried alternative methods over the years but we just do not have the skills, tools nor time to do anything other than the basics, if I'm lucky and with cuts in the public sector coming we may just have moss instead of grass in the future.
Regards
Steve
Don't talk to me about Contractors Wonka, I am one myself......
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