We are thinking about putting in some drainage ditches with perforated pipes,and then filling up with gravel at the end of the season.we have to do the work ourselves because money is tight.the pipes will run the length of the pitches.does anyone know how deep to put the pipes,and a way of calculating the amount of gravel needed,thanks
Good luck...
http://www.ldca.org/downloads.htm
Plastic.... it's The End I tell you... THE END!!!!
LOL...i must concur with my learned friend Barry on this....good luck indeed, ....you seem to have omitted where your gonna run the drainage to, and topping off with compatible rootzone...it no good attempting to put in drainage which is just going to backup with water as it has no where to go...
you would be far better talking to a couple of LDCA approved contractors, and get some feedback/advise from at least a site visit and possibly a quotation for works to suit your budget, you may find that by just squeezing a tiny bit more dosh out of the purse holder you would get a sensible start to a drainage system, and you could implement a plan to add to this over a couple of years
Ticky supports British farmers...!!
Sorry probably not clear enough.the ditches won't actually be on the pitches.the problem we have is we've got a run off from some fields that go straight on to our pitches.we were thinking of putting the drainage at the bottom of theses slopes,Do you think this will help,and yes we do have outlets for the water to run,thanks
AAAaaaaaaah... more like it.... Yes Nobby, can only have a positive benefit, the amount of stone will depend on what you intend to excavate the trench with, too what width and depth to get a fall... The Levels along the run are ALL that will dictate the depth required.. Only you can know this by taking levels..
Is there any reason why an open ditch could not be used, it is the most efficient removal for run-off but not always practical between pitch areas, but worth a consideration against boundaries maybe..
Hope the LDCA stuff helped..
Barry
Plastic.... it's The End I tell you... THE END!!!!
This now sounds as if it is to be no more than a ditch around the edge of the field, why the need for stone at all ?
The ditch would have to be about 2meters from the pitch I didn't think it would be safe to have it that near
Noop...
Plastic.... it's The End I tell you... THE END!!!!
Correct. Barry will know better but, do you need to fill it to the very top ? If you are to fill to the top do you have to dig it very wide ?
I don't know how deep and wide do you think it needs to be.and could we put some soil on top or does the gravel need to go to the top
to be honest...you could use 40mm or rejects to fill the ditch....this would eleviate the H&S issue, but still leave the ditch fairly open to water ingress and dispersal.....what do you think Barry P....???
Ticky supports British farmers...!!
19 Mar 2010 by Barry Pace Last edited 19 Mar 2010
Minimum of a 20mm clean gravel or stone so it does not travel, 40mm would be better for stability, definately fill to top no rootzone (sand/soil mix) or sand over if you can help else likely to silt/grow over or let water just run over, if you must cover would need a blinder to stop rootzone or sand dropping into the stone, 10-20mm would be better if you have to blind with a 2-6mm at circa 50mm and 100mm top, any more or straight soil and you will have much slower infiltration of water making the drain pointless really.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not use a geotextile to cover the drain... if you have surface water like this it is likley to be carrying silt and this will block the sheet very quickly IMHO better to put a flushing point in on end and wash drain out.
Does mean you will need to be careful with mowers along strip unfortunately but you have to balance the fact you want to get the water away as much as possible before it makes the surface wet and soft...
For trench size it depends on what you are going to use, if you use a lil mini digger a 150-200-250-300mm wide bucket would be available, depth depends on falls... you should aim for a 1:200 fall on the pipe/trench bottom if you can, this is 1m drop every 200m, 0.5m every 100m, 0.25 every 50m etc etc etc to ensure water flows... the dictator on this though is the depth of your outlet point, the falls on the ground and distance you need to run, and trying to get around 300mm minimum cover over the pipe if you can...
Volume of stone is simple calculation.... Trench width by depth by length = X cu.m (solid) Stone required, depending on source look at around 1.6t per cu.m
Ie. 100m by 300mm by 450mm average = circa 21.6 ton.......
Work out the machinery costs, time involved and materials and then look at how a Contractors price may have looked expensive on the outset but in reality is damn close to what it is going to cost you anyways... without all the hassle and sweat and grief....
Barry
Plastic.... it's The End I tell you... THE END!!!!
with money being tight as ever.Would it make a huge difference if we didn't use the pipe and either just filled in the ditch or put some plastic liner in the bottom and then fill,thanks
with money being tight as ever.Would it make a huge difference if we didn't use the pipe and either just filled in the ditch or put some plastic liner in the bottom and then fill,thanks
Nobby, it will make a difference to the speed of water removal, especially if levels are 'tight', 80mm Perforated Land Drainage pipe as minimum if this is all that is affordable, 100mm preferable, costs are minimal compared to the amount you will have to spend on Gravel.
Hunt around for best price, try Drainage or Pipe Centres (part of Wolsely Group) or where are you in Uk can give details of other suppliers if near.
Drainage is not cheap...... and it either works or it doesn't depending on methods, materials, quality of installation etc etc. Do it well and it will make a definitive improvement, whether it solves the problem or not or just improves it depends on the site and its inherent issues.
Barry
Plastic.... it's The End I tell you... THE END!!!!
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