Message Board - Cricket: Palladin Minor Clutch Problem
31 Mar 2010 by paul kelsey
My Palladin clutch cable broke mid March got a new one which included new lever as spec has been changed cost a bullseye, fitted it and its pretty firm to pull back into the lock position but its just trying to drive had to take gearbox top off to fit it just wondered if there is any other adjustment amongst the cogs and cones in there, this is not a new problem since new cable fitting was just wondering if there is a cure.
Many thanks
Paul
31 Mar 2010 by jlawrence
Just for your info Paul, we used to go through a clutch cable a year. Last year we also got this new spec with the new lever. It held up all last year and still looks perfect to me - so whatever they changed spec wise it seems to have worked well.
I'll leave it to Sumo to answer the adjustment problem but yes there is some adjustment - if Sumo doesn't answer I'll ask my mech.
Of course there's no bounce, bend your back and put some bloody effort in.
31 Mar 2010 by paul kelsey
Cheers JL dont think it needs much its more a problem when I start it on the concrete not as bad on grass.
31 Mar 2010 by Sumomosr
Can you post a pic of the new lever as I haven't seen it.
The adjustment 'was' on the ferrule where the cable entered the g/box on some and on the lever end on others, depending on age iirc.
Yes, you have to take the g/box top off to fit the cable.
There should be a smidge of free-play when engaged so you have full drive engagement with no slippage. When lever pulled back, clutch should disengage fully. You can observe this with the lid off.
GOGGA
31 Mar 2010 by paul kelsey
Thanks Sumo
Yes I will get pics of lever
Will get some of gearbox as well, as before cable broke im not sure I had full drive without pushing the lever out and waiting for full drive to engage but it was still trying to drive off when disengaged hope thats not bol****s.
1 Apr 2010 by mackay
Adjustment still on ferrule by gear box.
Try winding the thread out to move the little arm thingies further down the cone (If there is a technical mane for these then I don't know it - clutch arms???!).
Also, check that you have clean gearbox oil and oil of the correct type - if it's too dirty or viscous then I suppose this could cause enough friction to spin the cylinder.
1 Apr 2010 by mario
The "thingies" you refer to are given the name of toggles by Lloyds!
With the clutch engaged the toggles should ride on the tapered part of the cone about 5mm or 3/16ths" from the level part of the cone. (That's the bit at the thickest end of the cone).
If this tolerance is out of adjustment, disengage the clutch and slacken the screw on the toggle holder. Then turn the toggle holder a little and retighten the screw and check that you have the correct tolerance of 5mm.
Once this is correct adjust the cable to give at least 1mm of free-play.
This can be checked. When the clutch is engaged the bronze collar in the groove of the cone must be loose.
My scanner ain't working or I would copy the relevant page in the manual. But I hope this helps.
I know no boundaries.
1 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
Thanks guys
Mario will post some pics, it is useable if it was dry enough and there are a lot of cogs in there
2 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
Pics of clutch lever/gearbox
2 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
pic 2
2 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
pic 3
2 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
pic 4
2 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
pic 5
2 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
And finally anybody who does hanging baskets im the man for as much moss as you want
2 Apr 2010 by Sumomosr
Good clear pics, thanks.
Follow instructions as given and report back.
Organise a working-bee of members with rakes and offer prizes of beer for largest piles of moss.?
GOGGA
4 Apr 2010 by mario
Paul -
If you haven't got it sorted yet, perhaps this might help.
Gearbox internals showing the toggles, and adjuster (the screw has an Allen key head).
I know no boundaries.
4 Apr 2010 by mario Last edited 4 Apr 2010
With the clutch engaged there should be a 5mm gap between the end of the toggle and where the taper of the cone changes to a flat surface. (you may not be able to see the change at first, so run a fingernail along the cone and you'll feel the change)
I have used the shaft of a 5mm drill bit to measure the gap. You won't get a ruler or tape measure in there!
Note - I have taped the drill bit to my finger incase I dropped it into the gearbox!!
I know no boundaries.
4 Apr 2010 by mario
Once you have this set this adjust the cable to give free-play at the clutch lever end of at least a millimetre as pictured.
I know no boundaries.
4 Apr 2010 by mario
Finally, check both adjustments are correct by engaging the clutch whereby the bronze spacer, which my finger is pointing to, is free to move. (it only moves a fraction but it should be loose).
I know no boundaries.
4 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
Mario
Many thanks for the great pics will print them off and give it go tomorrow, ive had a few pots this aft, is engaged with lever pulled in or out in drive studied this for last hour and now its doin my head in, was gonna PM you but thats cheating if youre gonna look a prat let everybody see it.
PS Sumo's on top form at the moment so i'll get ready
4 Apr 2010 by Four Oaks
Excellent tip with the drill bit taped to the finger. Says he who dropped a gudgeon pin circlip into the innards of his BSA bantam in 1962. 
Presentation is the name of the game.
6 Apr 2010 by Sumomosr
Good pics and descriptions Mario.
Paul, adjust thingys and poke finger into gearbox as Mario illustrates and your sticky tape should engage the drill bit as necessary with some freeplay.
GOGGA
6 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
Many thanks once again guys.
Mario it was slightly out have adjusted to your specs and all seems ok, two wickets to cut today an oil change when its got warm and we should be ok.
Thanks Paul
6 Apr 2010 by mario
When mine was new (2004), the clutch and cutting reel adjustments took a time to"bed in". So I had the top off a few times in the first season.
Apart from the initial settling, it's a superb machine. The biggest benefit for me is the ability to do all the work yourself without the need for special tools. (apart from regrinds that is).
Good old British engineering!!
QUESTION: On another post I asked if anyone was using the rake attachment for cricket pitch preparation.
Didn't get a definitive answer. Does this mean no-one is, or someone is out there who has yet to respond?
I know no boundaries.
6 Apr 2010 by paul kelsey
Think I replied and said I was putting mine back on now the collecting box issue is sorted out.
6 Apr 2010 by mario
Sorry, Paul - yes you did. But is it worth the investment? How good a job does it do?
I use a Sisis Lawnman in between cuts which I feel gives me "control" over the pressure being applied to the surface and I can lift it up if I have areas on the pitch which have been sufficiently thinned out.
Cutting then using the Lawnman perhaps a few times equals "double-handling". If the attachment is a good 'un - will it save time?
I know no boundaries.
Back to Top - Go to Next Unread Message
This Message is closed, you may not post a reply at this time
