what can i do and use as fairy rings are showing more every day on fotball pitch what is the cause? and is it treatable
20 Jul 2010 by Mike
Can be caused by several factors, and depending on what type of fairy rings you have, there are different control measures. The information below should pretty much cover all of the bases...
There are three types of Fairy ring, with each displaying slightly differing characteristics. Each is shown as a ring of varying sizes, which is usually signified by either a change in colour, growth habits of the presence of fruiting fungal bodies. Type 1 rings will usually appear as two green rings of lush growth, each separated by dead vegetation. Type 2 rings are identified by a single, dark ring. Type 3 rings are usually identified by the presence of toadstools or puffballs, with no alteration to the growth habits of the grass plant. There is one other ring – the superficial ring although this is more commonly known as Thatch fungus. Superficial rings are identifiable by rings or patches of yellowed or ‘greened up’ grass and depressions of the surface. Identification of all fairy rings can also be aided by smelling the rootzone – a ‘musty’ smell should be evident. Type 2 and 3 rings should not cause too much in the way of damage. Type 1 rings can lead to severe damage, with the infected soil becoming hydrophobic, and the grass dying off. Superficial rings can also be problematic, with collapse of the surface being the most common problem.
Soils with a high level of organic matter, or thatch are particularly susceptible to Fairy ring development, as the organic matter provides a food source for the basidiomycete fungi. Soils with low fertility have also been shown to be prone to Fairy ring infestation, as well as sandy soils that have been poorly irrigated.
Ensuring that irrigation is applied to a sufficient depth, as opposed to light, infrequent applications should reduce the potential for Fairy ring development. The application of wetting agents has been shown to reduce the surface tension at the soil/water interface, and therefore should reduce the hydrophobic nature of the infected soil. Keeping the thatch density and depth to an acceptable level can also limit the potential for Fairy ring development. For type 1 Fairy rings, it is common to excavate the area up to 500mm deeper than the mycelium, and import new, sterilised soil. For type 2 Fairy rings, it is common to apply sulphate of iron or nitrogen to the area in an attempt to ‘mask’ the Fairy ring. For type 3 Fairy rings, it should be sufficient to simply remove the puffballs. Some success has been shown by repeated applications of a wetting agent, alongside regular aeration.
Chemical control measures are very limited, with many of the chemicals previously used for control having been withdrawn from sale. Azoxystrobin and Pyraclostrobin have shown limited success in control of type 2 Fairy rings in recent years.
Hope this helps.
20 Jul 2010 by Anthony Asquith Last edited 20 Jul 2010
Ian
From the work I have done with a number of wetting agents - they cannot stop true dry patch forming nor can they stop fairy ring doing what fairy ring does in the field. We could see benefits in the lab with water but not in the field.
The best form of controll is routine aeration, thatch reduction/removal and promoting grasses (or more specificaly roots) to grow into the soil past the hydrophobic layer.
AA
20 Jul 2010 by steven dipple Last edited 20 Jul 2010
i had fairy rings and used scotts heritage, worked straight away, u just have to apply it at monthly intervals until its totally gone, it also works for fusarium patch, dollar spot, red thead and brown patch
thanks for your replys will try and remedy with help you have given
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