Has anyone any experience of having their square scarified with a Koro scarifier?
Was looking at hiring a Graden but a guy came in today and said he could do two passes across the square for the price it would cost me to hire a Graden.
Also the machine would clean up.
I have not seen it in action so any advise would be welcome.
Thanks.
1 Sep 2010 by Mike Last edited 1 Sep 2010
I'm assuming you mean the field topmaker fitted with scarifying blades, Vic? If so, i've used one (or the blec version anyway). Good machine, far from subtle though - check the tines spacings (and thickness). I think when I used one the tines were set at 38mm which is more than I like tbh - it is very time consuming to change the tine spacings. Clean up is generally good, providing the operators know what they are doing - if using the conveyor system, familiarity and communication between the operator and the guy with the trailer/dumper is critical - keeping the conveyor speed consistent is also important, which can be difficult on some tractors.
All in all, it should do a good job... if you have the right people using it - if it's used by the wrong people, it has the potential to tear the square apart.
Mike
Thanks Mike, the company are one of the best by reputation and appear to use this machine a lot, so the operatives should be familiar with the operation.
Vic.
The scarifying blades that I have used for the Koro are better suited to winter sports pitches.
I use the Koro for cricket to remove all organic matter on the surface. Some people call this fraize mowing.
Then I use the Graden to tilth up the existing soil below, and to blend in & level new soil.
I would only suggest this method if you can cover your whole block with a grow cover. Excellent results, no thatch & fine young grass as end result...
Hi vic.
Do you mean fraze mowing? If so just be careful, I had mine done last year with a koro machine. It doe's a great job but I was there a one stage and saw the machine dig into the surface by about 2 to 3 inch's. caused by a bolt breaking and the one blade digging in to the surface. The tractor driver didn't notice and wouldn't because he's looking were he is going. When the top dressing is put on it looks fine, but when you come to get wickets out where the machine has dug in and been filled in with loam you have a soft spot and it will sunk leaving you with a hollow. This grove is about 4" wide. I had several groves on my square, one just short of a length. Just be careful.
Regards Eddie.
When fraize mowing I've noticed some contractors use worn blades. Not good as this leaves an uneven finish. Regardless of finish quality, you should always tilth up the surface heavily before adding new clay. This will encourage bind, and creates an excellent seed bed...
Vic, if you do this, you may want to run a scarifier over the sqquare after it has been Koro'ed , i have found the koro blades can "polish" the surface, which may affect the integration of the new loam
Thanks guys, Graden it is then. Booked for the 20th. Never used one before any tips?
Make sure you have a change of clothes, it is a dirty and dusty job!!
Yes Vic
It makes a hell of a mess! Especially if its dryish.
What do I do? I just cut the grass.
2 Sep 2010 by olaf
Vic,
I use the koro/collector and will continue to do so, its brill and a spotless finish ready for seeding straight away.
Not fraize mowing which leaves a smooth top that then needs cultivating a bit but with linear aeration blades.
Got it coming in wk commencing 27th, come over and have a look.
Some people are like Slinky's, totally useless but amusing if you push them down the stairs
That's the boy Andy and probably the same company from Radlett way. Would like to come and have a look but under pressure. Maybe Windsor? Going half day Tues.
Check that the machine you have on your square is a genuine Koro machine not a copy.
The Koro scarifier is available with either 1.5mm or 3mm tungsten tipped blades and most important has two blades per revolution - against the copy machine of one per revolution.
Two blades per cut will give you a much cleaner job, with blade spacings at 34mm as standard, although if required can be altered to 20mm.
Regarding a blade coming loose - are you sure the machine concerned is a genuine Koro Topmaker? Or a copy? Since the Koro digging reel has been developed to ensure this never happens.
Worn blades will not leave an uneven finish, however non geniune blades will.
Scarifying blades - two sizes are available, 3mm for outfield use and 1.5mm for fine turf use.
I would have thought that you would do a better job if you run a power harrow through the square set no more that 3cms deep. This will take out all the surface compaction, then spread the new loam, power harrow again to 2.5cms ameleorating new loam with existing then consolidate and bring to level using a 3mtr leveling arm or similar.
Done this way you will have a perfect level surfance for the following season.
Ian @ Campeys
Will a power harrow actually tilth a hard cricket square Ian. My understanding of the machine is this, it will leave a lovely tilth on soil that has already been loosened. Ie ploughed, disked etc.
If the power harrow is used at a very slow forward speed this will break up the surface compaction and ameliorate dressings leaving the surface which can easily be levelled
ian
Ian,
We have used the Koro to top plane our cricket blocks in NZ every year. If the block isn't softened through flooding up a couple of days earlier, the machine will give out.
It's not just blades that will snap off, the actual disks that the blades attach to break their welds at the shaft. Also the disks warp. The steel is too thin. We re-engineered a new shaft & disks using thicker steel this year.
Remember the machine was intially designed for soccer fields...
Great machine, makes our job much easier removing all debris & just leaving clean clay surface. We break that up, add some more clay, blend in & laser level. Sweet.
We use Graden for breaking up & blending.
Interesting Willard. Exactly how i relevel squares for clubs. Graden is a great piece of kit.
9 Sep 2010 by willard Last edited 9 Sep 2010
Yeah. The Graden does 2 jobs for us:
Creating a deep tilthed seed bed after the Koro has top planned the surface. Union Jack pattern usually.
Then after adding clay, we Union Jack again with Graden, raising the height by 2 turns after every pass.
Might do another final pass length ways just to knock the little ridges out. We apply seed & fert before blending. Then 1 more lot of seed before final length ways pass. Then roll block crossways & longways. Finally cover with grow cloth. Remove about 10 days later.
Excellent results: level block & perfect grass cover. Have never had to overseed later on. Sweet as...
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