June Golf Diary 2010

With May being a month of two halves, namely cold and mainly dry to start with followed by a sudden burst of heat and continued lack of rain for most, it hasn't been ideal for grass growth and recovery.

Sand based greens have been particularly slow to provide good, dense grass cover this season, especially where poa is the dominant species. Fortunately, temperatures have now recovered and, as long as water is available, then growth will follow.

Unless there is a complete lack of rain, June is normally the peak growing month of the year and a time when courses should be at or close to peak playing condition. Members and visitors expect courses to be at their best and with daylight at or close to maximum, playing surfaces should be at a premium.

With playing levels almost certain to be very high in June, the key challenge is to deliver good quality and presentation while still carrying out the basic and necessary cultural and routine maintenance tasks.

Diary complied by

Turf Master One Ltd

www.turfmasterone.co.uk

07774 414207

In June, the main criteria will be the quality, smoothness and consistency of the putting surface. Mowing is likely to be daily and the HOC will vary depending upon what grass species is present and what the current objectives are.

However, most courses will be mowing at 4mm with a triplex mower, supported by a mix of regular brushing, grooming and verti-cutting to help reduce lateral growth and prevent further thatch accumulation.

If this can be followed by frequent but very light dressings of around 5 tons per 19 greens every 2 to 3 weeks, then this will help to provide good playing surfaces and without any real interference to play. Aeration can be carried out more towards the start of the week using needle, micro or star tines, along with perhaps two light rollings each week using either the vibrating attachments or a self powered greens roller.

This gives increased pace and smoothness without having to further stress the turf from mowing at too low a cutting height. The use of sarel rollers is also beneficial in preventing any 'capping' of the surface. With regards to feeding and watering, the former should only be via a foliar tank mix containing a low amount of Nitrogen, a slightly higher amount of Potassium and various amendments such as seaweed and humic acids.

These are helpful in combating any drought or heat stress that may arise during the month. Wetting agent should be applied as required, possibly as part of the tank mix and supplemented by hand watering to any high and exposed areas on the green: this in addition to lightly aerifying the surface to ensure maximum water penetration.

The use of a PGR, Plant Growth Regulator such as Primo-Maxx applied at no more than 400ml per Ha and tank mixed with a small amount of feed, will give the turf added density and may even reduce the amount of water required. Before applying any such mix, it is best to check on application rates as well as compatibility for all proposed tank mixes.

There are a few products now on the market containing silicon and they help the leaves to grow more upright, thus giving a cleaner cut and improved ball roll. Again this can be applied as part of the tank mix. It must be noted however, that these products are an aid to turf quality and do not replace the basic principles in turfgrass management.

With playing quality and presentation being at the forefront this month, mowing should be at least twice per week at a HOC between 10 and 15mm, but tournament venues and resort style courses will be lower. Most courses now tend to mow at 12mm using tee triples with boxes but, as always, there are variations.

Apart from regular mowing and clipping removal, the main requirement is to ensure that divot filling takes place as often as possible and that tee markers are moved daily, with surfaces blown clear, especially on the par 3 holes. A good clean surface is essential and attention to detail for bins, ball washers and signage is part of the presentation process.

Smaller tees may require on-going over-seeding, either using non rye or rye based mixes, followed by a compost dressing to aid germination. Fertiliser and watering should be as required but both applied sparingly to encourage good root depth. The former is most likely to have been applied in April with good longevity.

Using a PGR will also lead to better turf quality and will reduce the amount of damage from divots. If doing so, then best to add a small amount of Nitrogen to give improved turf density and to maintain good colour. If dry patch or drought stress becomes an issue on sand based tees then apply a wetting agent and treat as per greens.

Regular mowing, usually at a height of about 35mm (1.4ins) will ensure good playing quality. Courses on heavier or more fertile sites may have to mow twice per week.

Ride on rotaries are generally preferred but cylinder reels are just as effective; more so if the grass species present is non-rye. Some selective weed control may be necessary, so use a product with different active ingredients to give a broad spectrum control ie clover, daisies and dandelion.

Only use traffic control measures if necessary at this time of year and if so there are good examples of discreet turf protection using post and rope or other devices. If any bare or weak areas still exist, then over-seed and dress but ensure the seed has good seed to soil contact and kept moist where possible,

With definition and presentation being key requirements at this time of year, mowing is likely to be twice per week for most courses, but this will vary upon grass type, rate of growth and desired standard of presentation.

Stripe mowing using ride-on machines is probably the most favourable, but 'block' mowing is just as effective and costs less in terms of fuel usage and machine wear. Fairways are generally mown at between 14 to 17mm but, again, this will be lower on the high end properties or those who have the benefit of fescue dominated swards.

Those using gang mowers are just as effective, but care needs to be taken when turning at either end of the fairway. Apart from selective weed control and divot filling, only a minority of courses will require further work such as irrigation, solid tining and over-seeding etc. For courses with yardage posts, ensure that they remain upright and clearly visible.

Rough

Since growth will be at a peak, mowing is likely to be an on-going requirement for many courses, unless on fine fescue links or heathland. Most roughs are mowed with rotary mowers, either trailed or ride-on, the latter being the most popular. Many courses now grade the rough with a narrow 5 metre band of intermediate rough cut at around 25mm, then standard semi at 50mm.

Out of play roughs are often left uncut but this will depend upon individual course policy. This is also the month best suited for controlling unwanted weeds. However this should be limited to the main playing areas and every attempt should be made to designate areas of the course for natural grassland.

Depending on the amount of growth present, the extent of the rough should always be under review and a careful watch for areas regularly subject to lost ball searches. In such circumstances, 'easing' back the rough will help to speed up play and be appreciated by the golfers.

Bunkers

Regular raking, edging and trimming to ensure good presentation will be an on-going requirement, along with the re-distribution of sand to ensure an adequate and consistent depth of sand.

Some topping up of sand is likely and to some extent will depend upon individual requirements. Where wash-outs are common on high sand faced bunkers, then removal and replacement of sand is more likely. Grass faces require regular brushing, especially those close to the front of the green. Stone removal and possible glyphosate treatment to sand faces are also to be considered as part of the monthly routine.