March Tennis Diary 2012

The recent mild weather has resulted in higher than average air temperatures for the time of the year, with temperatures well into double figures, which in turn as encouraged some early spring growth.

However, these temperatures are likely to fluctuate until the end of March until the clocks go forward and we get some longer daylight hours.

These soil and air temperatures will soon remain consistent, once we get a few hours of bright March sunshine. Surfaces will, hopefully, dry out allowing you the opportunity to get on with your planned spring work.

The present condition of the courts will also have a bearing on what maintenance operations you should be doing. Coming out of this unseasonal wet and mild winter weather, there will be many clubs suffering from a build up of moss and algae problems.

Mowing frequencies will gradually be more frequent as the grass begins to grow, going from a weekly cut into a 2-3 weekly cut in April. This increased mowing regime helps stimulate the grass plant and help thicken up the sward.

Mowing heights: The sward should be maintained at its winter height of cut between 12-18mm. The use of a rotary mower can be ideal for topping off and, at the same time, cleaning up any surface debris.

Usually, these renovation revolve around some light scarification work, which helps remove any dead moss / unwanted thatch, aeration, topdressing and overseeding. Consult the new Grass Seed 2012 booklet to choose appropriate seed cultivars.

A dose of slow release fertiliser can be applied to act as a base feed; this will keep the grass plant fed for a couple of months, which can be supplemented with some liquid feeds as and when required.

Fertiliser programme: If grass shows signs of stress (weak growth, discoloured). Fertiliser treatment and turf tonic can be continued in accordance with your annual programme. If you haven't got a fertiliser programme, have your soil tested; try an independent soil analysis company for an impartial set of results. Apply a spring fertiliser when conditions allow.

Useful Information for Mowing and Fertilising

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Mosses are primitive non-flowering plants that have no root structure and rely on there being sufficient moisture in the environment for reproduction and survival. The majority of mosses are tolerant of acidic conditions and are stimulated by wet humid conditions. Rapid colonisation of moss and algaes usually occur during autumn and winter months when turf surfaces are lying wet and saturated for long periods of time, particularly when little or no aeration has been undertaken.

Remember, moss is the symptom of poor grass growth, and not the cause of it. If you make sure you have a tightly knit sward next year, and have maximised drainage with plenty of regular aeration, you should not have to deal with moss at all.

If you are saddled with a turf situation that has a lot of moss present, there will be a requirement to kill off the moss. The only product now available to control moss in turf is sulphate of iron (Ferrous Sulphate), it is relatively cheap and effective. It can be applied in a liquid or granular formulation. The granular form is usually mixed with sand to provide a carrier for the active ingredient. Apply at recommended rates.

When using lawn sands, it is important you use a compatible sand product that matches your rootzone soil profile. You do not want to create a layering problem. Some club Groundsmen may not entertain the use of lawn sand, as they do not want to introduce a sand medium into the clay based soil structure.

For tennis courts, I would recommend you apply the sulphate of iron in a liquid form; you will have better control over application rates.

For best results:-

• Apply when the turf is actively growing and the soil is moist

• Mow 3 days before treatment and do not mow for three days after treatment

• Water after 2 days if no rain forecast

• Rake out dead moss thoroughly 7-14 days after treatment

• Re-treatment may be necessary for heavy infestations

Any bare or sparse areas can be lightly tilthed, overseeded and topdressed with a sand/soil rootzone mix. Cover with germination sheets to promote quicker growth.

Useful Information for Moss control

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Daily brushing will help disperse early morning dews and help dry out the sward, thus reducing the amount of surface leaf moisture content that can initiate an outbreak of fungal disease. Brushing also helps stand the sward upright and increase air flow around the grass plant.

It is also important to try and keep the the top 50mm of the soil profile free draining, this is achieved by keeping the surface open to allow gaseous exchange, thus preventing anaerobic conditions prevailing. The surface is kept open by a programme of aeration techniques, varying the type and size of tines used.

For shallow aeration, the use of a sarrel roller is sufficient, however you may need to go deeper by using either pedestrian or tractor mounted aerators fitted with longer tines, which can be selected to achieve depths of aeration from 100-300mm. Care should be taken when undertaking these tasks, trying to aerate when the soil is wet or saturated can cause greater problems such as smearing and compaction.

Useful Information for Brushing / Aeration

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Diseases: Keep an eye on fungal disease attack, and use approved fungicides to treat infected areas. Any mild and wet weather will certainly provide the ideal climatic conditions for diseases. Regular brushing or switching off the dew in the mornings will reduce the chance of fungal attack.

Useful Information for Disease

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